Niccolo Porcella survives ‘heaviest erasure in surfing history’ at Teahupoo

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Porcella said he had just been towed on a jetski in his sixth wave of the day, when he fell off his board and hit the water.

“It was the most violent thing – I was devastated,” Porcella said. Surf life.

“I was bounced, tackled onto the reef, the whole nine yards. Just up and over and over again. It held me up long enough. My life jacket blew up right away, then the second wave got me. pierced – I actually hit the bottom even harder. I hit my back, my knees, and then I had about four more waves on my head after that… that hit the reef. “

The training he had done beforehand – on strength, flexibility, holding his breath and controlling his mind – helped him cope with the intensity of the moment, he said. .

He said he ended up resurfacing, “coughing up blood several times” and seeing the relief on the face of the jetski pilot who came to his aid.

“Then I just had this scream from deep inside me, just ‘Rhawghhhh!’. I felt most alive and grateful to be alive, I was so happy. two or three minutes, then I got out and waited about 20 minutes for another bomb. “

It would be understandable if he wanted to take a break and regroup after such an ordeal, but Porcella had other activities in mind.

“We want to fly in combination over the mountains. We are lining up permits and helicopters and everything, and we will do that within a week,” he said.

Teahupoo – often referred to as Mugs – is the surf spot where Australian surfer Mick Fanning will return to take part in the world tour next month, after his own close shave when he survived an encounter with a great white shark in South Africa. South.

Fanning posted a surf video on Instagram this week, with the caption: “Can’t wait for Tankards !!!”


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